La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro are the Canary Islands for walkers, stargazers and anyone who wants to escape the resorts. They are steep, green and quiet, with few sandy beaches. The gateway to all three is Tenerife: La Gomera is under an hour away by fast ferry, and La Palma and El Hierro are a short Binter flight or a crossing of about two and a half hours.
La Gomera
The closest of the three, and the only one that works as a day trip from Tenerife. Its centrepiece is Garajonay National Park, a misty laurel forest declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 and the largest of its kind in Europe. Ravines lined with terraces and palm groves run down to the sea, and the whole island, with part of the surrounding sea, has been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 2012.
- Silbo gomero: the whistled language once used to talk across ravines is on UNESCO's intangible heritage list and taught in the island's schools.
- San Sebastián de La Gomera: the small capital and ferry port, where Columbus made his last stop before crossing the Atlantic on his first voyage in 1492.
- Valle Gran Rey: a terraced valley on the west coast with black-sand beaches and a relaxed, long-stay crowd.
Getting there: ferries from Los Cristianos in southern Tenerife take about 50 minutes, run by Fred. Olsen Express and Baleària Canarias (formerly Armas Trasmediterránea), with several sailings a day. Fred. Olsen also runs a coastal boat between San Sebastián, Playa de Santiago and Valle Gran Rey. La Gomera's small airport only has Binter flights to Tenerife North and Gran Canaria. The official La Gomera tourism site has trail maps and transport tips.
La Palma
Known as La Isla Bonita, La Palma is the greenest and tallest of the three. Its official tourism page notes that it was the world's first Starlight Reserve, with a law protecting its night sky, and the Roque de los Muchachos observatory sits on the rim of the island's national park.
- Caldera de Taburiente National Park: a vast crater with walls rising over 2,000 m, pine forest and year-round streams. Car access to the La Cumbrecita viewpoint is regulated in the mornings, so check the national park's access page before driving up.
- Roque de los Muchachos: at about 2,400 m, the island's highest point, above a sea of clouds. The road up is long and winding, and snow or ice can close it in winter.
- The volcanoes: the south of the island is a chain of volcanic cones. The Tajogaite eruption of 2021 lasted 85 days, from September to December, and buried part of the west side of the island. The trail through the new volcano can only be walked with an authorised guide, so book ahead.
- Santa Cruz de La Palma: the capital, with a well-preserved old town of wooden balconies.
Getting there: Binter flies to La Palma from both Tenerife airports and Gran Canaria, the airport also has mainland and seasonal European flights, and ferries from Los Cristianos, run by Fred. Olsen and Baleària Canarias, take from about 2.5 hours. Hire a car to get around.
El Hierro
The smallest and most remote of the main islands, and one of the least visited. The whole island has been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 2000, and it aims to run fully on renewable energy through the Gorona del Viento wind and hydro plant.
- La Restinga and the Mar de las Calmas: the southern fishing village sits beside the Punta de La Restinga-Mar de las Calmas marine reserve, sheltered from the trade winds and known for calm, clear water. It is a renowned diving area with several dive centres.
- Natural pools: instead of beaches, El Hierro has rock pools such as Charco Azul, carved into the base of a volcanic cliff, and the sheltered cove of Tacorón near La Restinga.
- El Sabinar: juniper trees bent almost flat by the wind, on the island's western uplands.
- Mirador de la Peña: a clifftop viewpoint designed by César Manrique, over the El Golfo valley.
Getting there: Fred. Olsen's fast ferry from Los Cristianos to La Estaca, the port of the capital Valverde, takes about 2 hours 20 minutes, with daily departures at varying times; check them before fixing your dates. Binter flies from Tenerife North and Gran Canaria. The El Hierro tourism site lists accommodation, much of it rural houses and small apartments rather than big hotels.
Planning tips
- Time: a day is enough to taste La Gomera, but La Palma and El Hierro deserve three nights or more.
- Weather: northern slopes catch more cloud and rain, and the mountains are cold in winter; see our weather and best time guide, or compare which Canary Island to choose.
- Ferries and flights: connections are fewer than on the big islands and bad weather can cancel them, so leave a buffer before your flight home. Our guide to airports, ferries and getting around has more detail.
Staying connected
On mountain trails, remote roads and ferry quays, offline maps help, but live news of cancelled sailings or closed roads needs data. A data eSIM for Spain gives you local data from arrival without removing your own SIM, which can help British visitors avoid roaming charges from their home network.