Getaria is a fishing village between Zarautz and Zumaia, built around a harbour and a wooded headland called "the mouse" (*el ratón*). It is small, but it gave the world Juan Sebastián Elcano, the first captain to sail around the globe, the fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, and some of the best grilled fish anywhere.
Where to eat
Getaria is famous for fish grilled whole over charcoal on outdoor grills by the harbour.
- Elkano. Opened in 1964 by Pedro Arregi and run by his son Aitor, it made the whole grilled turbot famous far beyond Spain; it holds a Michelin star (Michelin Guide). Order the turbot (rodaballo) for two, or sea bream (besugo) in season. Book well ahead.
- Kaia-Kaipe. Above the harbour, another classic of Getaria's grills, with a famous wine cellar and views over the port.
- The harbour grills. Several restaurants along the port grill the day's catch outside; walk past, see what is on the grill, sit where it smells best.
Txakoli
Getaria gives its name to *Getariako Txakolina*, the fresh, slightly sparkling white wine of the hills above the village, poured from a height. Several wineries welcome visitors; ask in the tourist office.
What to see
- The Mouse (San Antón). A walk around the headland with views of the coast and the lighthouse.
- The Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum, on the designer born here, overlooking the village.
- The church of San Salvador, with a sloping floor and a street passing under it.
Getting there
Walk from Zarautz on the seafront path (about an hour), take the coastal bus from San Sebastián or Zarautz, or drive the coast road. Continue to Zumaia for the cliffs.
Staying connected
Bookings, bus times and the coastal path all live on your phone. A data eSIM for Spain gives you local data from the moment you land.