San Sebastián (Donostia in Basque) is a small city on a perfect bay, with a beach in the middle of town, an old quarter packed with pintxo bars and more Michelin stars per head than almost anywhere. It is easy to fall for and easy to do on foot.
The essentials
- La Concha. The shell-shaped bay and its promenade, one of Europe's best city beaches. Walk it end to end, from the old town to the Peine del Viento sculptures by Eduardo Chillida.
- Parte Vieja, the old town. Narrow streets of pintxo bars between the port and the river; Plaza de la Constitución, whose balconies are still numbered from the days it was a bullring.
- Monte Igeldo and Monte Urgull. Igeldo has a century-old funicular and the classic postcard view of the bay; Urgull is a free walk up from the old town with the castle at the top.
- Zurriola beach and Gros. The surfers' beach across the river, in the neighbourhood locals go out in.
- San Telmo Museum, on Basque society and history, in a former convent.
Eating
Pintxos are the point: go bar to bar in the old town or Gros, order the house speciality at each and move on. For a sit-down meal or a Michelin dinner, see where to eat in San Sebastián, and do not leave without trying La Viña's burnt cheesecake.
Getting there and around
San Sebastián has a small airport of its own; most international visitors fly into Bilbao or Biarritz. All the options are in getting to San Sebastián. In town you walk; the city buses (Dbus) cover the rest.
Day trips
- Getaria and Zumaia along the coast: Getaria and the Zumaia flysch.
- Hondarribia, a walled town by the French border.
- Biarritz and the French Basque Country, about 40 minutes by car: guide.
When to go
June and September have warm days and fewer people than July and August. The Film Festival fills the city in late September; mid-August brings Semana Grande and its fireworks over the bay.
Staying connected
Bookings for the busiest bars and restaurants, maps and the bus app live on your phone. A data eSIM for Spain gives you local data from the moment you land, without removing your own SIM.